Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Dec. 15-16th





























So, Korea has been improving exponentially since my 12/9 post. I have finally re-entered the modern world, with a cell phone. All praise LG, Samsung, (Lord here our prayers)! I've made some really cool friends, though think not that these are in abundance in the land of morning calm, for conforminty and all things popular are the driving force of this peninsula. Yet, perhaps by the graces of Hermes himself, I have met a couple really cool Indie type kids.



So, during the aforementioned weekend Jon (Canadian musician I've been work with, best friend in Korea), Justin (Korean who worked for Vice magazine in Toronto and went to Parsons for a while), and I went to Hongdae to find the elusive indie scene of Seoul. Elusive indeed I dare say! Find it we did not. It rotates around the district in roving nights of partucularity daring not show itself to the masses happy to be un the wiser of its existence. Yet, we found its haunts. Little out of the way rock clubs who infrequently host shows and parties with indie rock music for the few dozen or so people who enjoy such things in Seoul. We even found a chill hipster bar decorated in a hodge-podge of 60's-80's used furnuture, where they serve drinks out of plastic bags, which you drink with a straw (very carefully I add).



We met at Hongik Station. Jon and I were 30 minutes late due to our inability to judge Seoul transit times as of yet. We all ate some street food (everywhere here, and cheap!), and headed the wrong way for ten minutes trough a small neighborhood typical of Seoul. After Justin retreaved some vital directions from his little sister via technologies I had not as of yet, we headed to Club FF, supposed inde venue supreme. I was skepitcal, as Justin lived a 5 minte cab ride away and had not heard of the place. They were playing House music. We went to some rock bar upstairs, where they played mostly shitty pop music but garnished the musical palette with our requested songs of actual substance. We made fun of people, got to know each other a bit more, and talked to some random German girls. All was feeling rather typical of Seoul, but the company was great. Justin insisted I had to see the film "Drugstore Cowboy", I agreed to comply promptly, and we left after 3 beers and Justin and Jon did shots of Canadian Club.



Wandering around Hongdae looking for a place playing rock music "any rock music will do at this point", we laughed and generally felt happy and comical. Topics such as New York and Toronto, 200 zillion bands, films, and drugs were discussed, half in jest, half in the way people chat when they don't yet know each other thoroughly.



Eventually we settled on a Canadian style bar that serves Poutine. The bar was full of half foereigners, and half Korean business guys and well dressed girls, all making fools of themselves on the dance floor. Justin and I in partular showed little restaraint in our cynically jovial commentary on the dance floor situation. We all moaned a bit when the waitress returned with our rather insufficient bowl of poutine. After despensing with the poutine in record time, we concurred that it wasn't as good as one would find in Montreal, yet it was a slice of heaven in Seoul nonetheless. The debauchery became a tad too much to take after countless modern pop and awfull hip-hop songs, even shots couldn't cure it, and thus we got the hell out of there.



Justin said we should skip the next bar, and get beer and drink at his place as we watched episodes of Arrested Development in succession. We took a cab there for a mere yuke-chun won ($6), and Jon and I found ourselves in Seoul's wannabe Manhattan, Yeouido. Justin's place was on the 27th floor, one 3 second elevator ride later (seriously), and we watched in some sort of dramatic sci-fi awe as Justin scanned his fingerprint in the front door of his family's condo. Holy Shit! (insert wisper) Yeah, seriously dude. We ended up watching "Drugstore Cowboy" and passing out on Justin's large modern couch at about 4:30 a.m., the average time for us in Seoul it seems.



The next day Jon and I got up headaches in tow, and grabbed omlet sandwiches for about a buck, and took a cab to Insadong. Insadong is the traditional cultural district of Seoul, where one can find palaces and historic sites nestled between vendors of pirated DVD's, Burger King, and all things modern Korea. Jon and I were on a sort of mission: To find a drum machine at Nagwon music Arcade! The mission took a long time. Nagwon is three floors of massive amounts of musical instrument vendors. One can a find a vast array of anything from recording gear to toy instruments, and guitars, guitars, GUITARS everywhere! Needless to express the inevitable end: Us wandering around ooohing and aahing at vintage synths and Gibson guitars. After much playing, and various forms of brush off the foreigner antics we found a drum machine suitable for our little project. We headed back south to Pundang, and I ended up crashing early and resting so I could climb on Sunday, because the cold I was battling was clearly getting the best of me. I fell asleep watching pirated episodes of Rome.








Sunday I met up with some people from Korea's version of rockclimbing.com and went to Bukansan National Park. Let's just say that when Koreans hike, they bring Soju. I was shown this cool river with Boulders all around. Bouldering is not popular here, and it is mostly undeveloped. Projects abound. I flashed some girls "v-4" sloper problem and went exploring. It was frustrating because virtually all of the overhanging faces have no features. The granite is quite good quality, and ranges from j-tree sharp, to smooth as hell. I found some potential projects, and froze my ass off sitting on a rock in the middle of a river with my sleeping bag wrapped around me like a little down cacoon. I'll definately be heading back there, probably on an every sunday basis. I can put up numerous lines I think. and there are some boulders large enought to put up sport lines on. I'll have pictures after my next trip I think. You don't even need to bring food because there are food vendors on the trail to the river. The moutains which surround the river are quite beautiful, and the climbers are welcoming. Koreans clamber around confused as to why people would spend so long climbing such short rocks, when there are clearly easier ways to up said rocks on the other side.









I'll have pictures from Friday and sauturday night soon, and I will post them. Thanks to all who read my drivel, and I apologize for negativity as of late. I hope all is well with all those back home on their own adventures and such!









Until next time.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Dec. 9th, 2007

So all, as some may have heard. I nearly flew back to the states this morning. Why you ask? Well, frankly I wonder if I didn't make a huge mistake coming to Korea. Is it a good place for a guy like myself? That remains to seen. But, at this stage in the sojourn, it clearly feels like a plate full of regret, and I'm not all that hungry. Perhaps it's the way the foreigners tend to be disrespectful of Korean women on a level as grotesque as the cab driver laughing about the freezing dogs in the back of a pickup truck on the way to the market for human consumption (joking, ummm good -insert hand rubbing tummy motion), or perhaps it was just my Friday night in Itaewon, which makes Vegas look civilized. Maybe it's just not having a cell phone or internet, and working 10-12 hours a day. My life in Korea is the video clip next the word manic on dictionary.com. Always, in the same weekend I feel elated at a new friend or really cool place in Seoul, or learning a new phrase and being understood by a Korean. Yet, there are always moments of disgust, shame, and loneliness. Often in the same night I feel excited, and jovial, only to get so pissed off that I wanna get arrested and deported.

Example: (Last night)

7pm - get a call on home phone from Jon (best friend in Korea, we met my first weekend here, played music together and explored Seoul, cool, nice guy).
"Hey Dom, sorry I'm gonna be a little late, wanna go see this horrible oil spill about two hours tomorrow after we jam tonight?"
"What the hell, sounds pretty shitty, I'll go, wanna meet at Samsung Plaza soon?"
"Sure"
"When can you make it?"
"9:15 sound cool?"
"Sure, see you then, in front of the Burberry store, exit #6"

I wait at the Burberry store for and hour and ten minutes, no Jon. Neither of us have cell-phones cause we need our Alien Registration Card to get them. I see some coworkers going a place called Incheon 3 buildings away. After Jon doesn't show, I head up there. I'm really pissed-off, having an I-fucking-hate-Korea moment.
5 or so pitchers, a Korean girl I work with telling me several times I'm really attractive, and "you have good style", my boss is being really cool, she introduces me to a friend of hers preceding the introduction with a sly, "She's single, she likes rock too". We all head to Nori-bang (Karaoke rooms), I sing Wonderwall with said bosses friend, and she asks me if I wanna go to another place with her, boss and cool Korean guy who I'll leave unnamed, fuck it I'm gonna leave them all unnamed. I'm feeling super happy, and not nearly as drunk as everyone else.

At the next bar, I talk to bosses friend and cool Korean guy about my reservations about being in Korea, about films a bit, about what we all studied, I feel like I can be understood. Korean coworker girl tries to get me to dance several times, overtly flirts. I'm feeling content. Boss is telling me I'm doing a good job, very professional etc. I learn about 5 Korean phrases that I know I'll forget the next day. Feeling great.

Same bar, some other coworkers show up. One male coworkers friend is super wasted and all over complimenting Korean coworker, at one point she says (jokingly as not to be dramatic, but kinda serious) "help me" to other Korean girls. I ask cool Korean guy if it's me or is the guy being a completely disrespectful asshole. He concurs. We all get told to leave bar cause it's closing. Several hang around, touchy-feely guy continues his asshole behavior. I begin to tell him to chill the fuck out, he's being rude. Doesn't stop. Near taxi stand. I say he's being and asshole. Some random Korean guys tell me "You're handsome" I respond thank you, but guys in the U.S. don't usually say that to other guys. One Korean guy explains to the other two. "oh, I get it", "it's cool now worries" We chat a bit, They say "we'll help" and point to touchy-feely guy. My cowerker, (touchy-feely guys friend) overhears me saying touchy-feely guy is being an asshole, tries to fight me, I tell him being a friend of his doesn't grant carte-blanche to be disrespectful. Touchy-feely guy confronts me, I offer casually to fight if he'd like, refuse to apologize. Korean coworker girl tries to get me in a cab. I say I'm not that drunk, and I'll go when and where I want. Joe (cool quite musician guy I work with) concurs, "he's really not drunk like they are" (referring to Canadian coworker and touchy-feely friend). I tell Canadian coworker (who I really liked before this event), to fuck right off, and Joe and I take a cab back to the block that we both live on (Cool Korean guys say good by and help us with cab-driver negotiations (at first cabby tells us "No, I go only Seoul") Korean guys get him to take us. "Kahmsahamnida(thank you)" (insert genuine bows) "Annyunggaseyo (bye)". At this point I'm having a major fuck-Korea moment. I don't want o be a part of this shit show. I should have never came to this forsaken country. I go to bed at 4:30ish after talking to friends back home really upset and planning to book a flight in the morning.

Korea:

good- Korean people aged 4-36-ish, food, language, easy to make friends.

bad- 90% of foreigners make me sick (they're creepy to the max, rude, disrespectful), can't even order food half the time, older generation looks at me with contempt on a regular basis, work too hard, loneliness.

Until next time